Thursday, July 9, 2026

6.18.26--National Oregon Trail Interpretive Center (PART TWO)

 We went to the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Center and it was well worth our time! I'm sure we've all heard about the Oregon Trail at one time or another. I've done a little research on this during my teaching years and have always been interested. The displays in the museum were life sized and there was so much information to ready and see that we just couldn't do it all. There was a woman demonstrating weaving while we were there. We stopped to watch and chat. We enjoyed this visit! Check out the photos even if you aren't into reading some of my research.

***Note that the quotes from emigrants are written as they were found so grammar and spelling may not be correct. 


The Oregon Trail was a 2,170-mile overland wagon route connecting the Missouri River to the fertile Willamette Valley in Oregon. From the 1840s to the 1880s, hundreds of thousands of pioneers utilized it to seek new land and a fresh start, driving western expansion.

The trip typically took 4 to 6 months. Emigrants averaged only 10 to 20 miles a day, mostly walking alongside or behind their wagons.

The trail stretched from Independence, Missouri, through present-day Kansas, Nebraska, Wyoming, and Idaho before descending into Oregon. The path heavily relied on rivers for water (Platte, Snake, and Columbia) and crossed the Continental Divide via the relatively easy South Pass in Wyoming.



The journey was incredibly grueling. Roughly 1 in 10 travelers died along the route. The majority of these casualties were not due to conflicts, but rather outbreaks of disease, particularly cholera and typhoid fever.

The trail was originally established by fur traders and trappers. "Oregon Fever" truly took off in 1843 when the first large wagon train of nearly 1,000 pioneers successfully completed the trek. Emigration increased further after 1850 due to the Oregon Donation Land Act, which granted land to settlers. While pioneers generally traded with Native American tribes along the way, the massive influx of settlers devastated Indigenous communities. Tribes were largely pushed off their ancestral lands to make way for American expansion. The completion of the first transcontinental railroad in 1869, which made traveling west far faster and safer. 

Who goes and what goes:

The people who traveled to Oregon were mostly young, white, American born men. They outnumbered women six to one. Not many black people crossed overland to Oregon; those that were free often lacked the money for such a long journey. Few elderly people could survive the2000 mile journey either.

The trip cost a lot of money, sometimes $500 or more per person for essentials such as food, bedding, tents, tools, wagon, livestock, tack, and clothing. Anything else was luxury.



"We had to load and unload our wagons, row the skiff and then pay $4 per wagon and 50¢ a head for swimming cattle by the side of the boat."

~Basil Longsworth, August 8, 1853.






The photo above shows where the trail is in the same photo I took below.


July 4, 1776 was a turning point in world history. In the 19th century it was the nation’s most important holiday. Tens of thousands of Americans went on a patriotic spree every Fourth of July. Even though emigrants were hundreds of miles out on the trail, they still celebrated vigorously. Independence Rock stood tall above them, a symbol of American resistance to tyranny and commitment to democracy. Music, firing off guns, speeches, and a round of drinks often marked observances of the “Glorious Fourth.”

“The day was ushered in with the booming of small arms, the best we could do under the circumstances….”  ~E.W. Conyers, July 4, 1852



Many emigrants couldn't swim a stroke, but even strong swimmers risked drowning in the treacherous currents of the Snake. The river's deep holes, surging water, and unexpected rises were perilous.

Somehow, everything and everybody had to get across, whether by fording, floating or ferrying.

"What villainy is this!" Henry Allyn, 1853



In the picture below there was a small model wagon and different wooden "supplies" to fill it. What would you take? What would you leave behind? I had to leave behind the stove. 


Enterprising Mormons. Indians, and fur company employees offered ferry service - for a price. "This is the way to wring hard-earned money from the starving poor," lamented Basil Longsworth. At anywhere from $3 to $10 per wagon and 50¢ a head for cattle, the emigrants got soaked.

After waiting their turn at the ford for hours or even days, the travelers would take the wheels off the wagons, caulk the wagon beds, lash them together, load up hired canoes with goods, pull themselves across with a rope stretched across the river, and pray. For a small fee (perhaps "a shirt and some caps"), Indians would swim with the livestock, coaxing them across.

Cattle frequently caused trouble: "Often after swimming half way over the poor things will turn and come out again." Sometimes they wouldn't budge, delaying the crossing for hours. "And sometimes the cattle... would start swimming down stream, towing the wagon beds with them.

This would have to be stopped or we would be in danger of going over the falls -" ladies, goods, and all.” ~Basil Longsworth



There was a round up of different styles of wagons. The front wheels were smaller on all of them because they have a better turning radius and the back wheels were larger because they can travel farther and better over rough terrain.


We went to walk o the actual wagon ruts that are over 180 years old.


We had a visitor on our walk! A coyote!
 

“As far as the eye can reach either way lay handsome rolling prairies. Not a stone, a tree, not a bush even nothing but grass and flowers meet the eye until you reach the valley…which is as level as the house floor.”  Lydia Rudd, May 11, 1852



Walking on the Oregon Trail. I can not imagine walking 15-20 miles in these conditions with a heavy long dress and small boots on every day...and then cooking and doing laundry. I would have given up at the next town...or before.

After reading pioneer journal entries and walking on parts of the Oregon Trail, we understand why our ancestors stopped in Wisconsin!

CLICK on my video below:





A few short videos of the area:



If you're interested in the diary entries, read on...if not, this is the end of today's blog. I had fun seeing and researching!

Don't forget...Do something every day that makes you smile! 


A few Diary entries I found interesting below:

From the Diary of Henry Allyn

July 25: John W. finds a human skull. Soon after we discover a grave... that had been dug open and a number of human bones scattered around it.

July 26: We collected all the bones we could find... and whatever fragments of grave clothes were scattered around and the pillow which was under the head of the corpse and put them into the grave and covered them up as well as we could. We had nothing but a small fire shovel to work with. There was a board at the head of the grave on which was carved, "In memory of Ann Kiser..." After this we start on over a rocky road.

 "There'll be apples on each branch in Oregon, There'll be valleys filled with golden grain;

There'll be cattle on each ranch in Oregon, For there'll be plenty of sun and rain.

"Down the Oregon Trail"

The Final Test

Emigrants camping in the Powder River Valley often met traders from Willamette who walked through offering food and good news. They told of the bountiful harvests, the fertile soil, and the gentle winters in Oregon. The promised land seemed so close, but several enemies still barred the way: weather, mountains, rivers, and lack of supplies.

Hailstorms and iced-over water buckets reminded the travelers that winters come early in the mountains. Axing their way through thick timber and hauling wagons up seemingly vertical inclines drained their small stores of energy, patience and supplies.

Beyond the Blues, travelers heading for Willamette had to decide between two unappealing routes: the Columbia River or the Barlow Road.

Whether they chose the river or the road, they risked losing everything. Fortunately, moments of joy and relief flickered brightly as they neared their goal; friendly Indians still provided fresh foods, and the land itself more than fulfilled their hopes.

 

 "We arrived at Grand Ronde. We had a feast from the Cayuse Indians. We had some nice elk meat and boiled it with dried huckleberries and plenty of flour. We had a royal meal as we thought."

John Burch McClane, 1843

 

 "Rainy day. Making rafts. Women cooking and washing. Children crying.

Elizabeth Dixon Smith, 1847.

The Dalles Decision

Arriving at The Dalles during the rainy fall season with jaded livestock and crippled wagons did litle to raise the emigrants' spirits. They were weary, hungry, footsore and sorely reduced financially. Ahead lay the final challenges of the way west: should they take the river or the road or just stay put?

Joel Palmer had this experience in 1845: "This day we intended to make arrangements for our passage down the river, but we found... that the two boats ...were engaged for at least ten days, and their charges were exorbitant, and would probably absorb what little we had left to pay our way to Oregon City. We then determined to make a trip over the mountains ..."

The Columbia River swirled ominously, hinting at the rapids in the Gorge. The Barlow Road meant forests, snow, cold nights, and mud on Mt. Hood.

Some emigrants decided to "winter over" at The Dalles, but had to live with the nagging thought of others getting the best lands west of the mountains.

All the options were costly - physically, emotionally, and financially.

 

 Trails End

For those who had risked all - life, limb, health, and wealth - the banks of the Willamette symbolized the completion of a dream. They had not truly arrived at the end of the trail; they still had lands to claim and homes to build. But the river and the fragrant smell of cottonwoods confirmed that the transit of the American West was complete. It was the greatest mass migration in North American history.

The pioneers crossed nearly 2,000 miles of wilderness to chart a new destiny on the Pacific Slope. The experience marked their lives forever. Their journey became a badge they wore until death. They knew they had made history.

 "Friday, October 27, Arrived at Oregon City at the falls of the Willamette.

Saturday, October 28: Went to work." ~James Nesmith, 1843


"Four miles brought us to the city of Oregon....

Its population is about fourteen hundred, nine stores, two churches, two saw-mills, two grist mills, two groceries, and two boarding houses."

William J. Watson, September 13, 1849

 

 We landed this morning at our destined place..." Henry Allyn, 1853.

 

From the Diary of CECELIA MCMILLEN ADAMS, 1852

Twin sisters Cecelia and Parthenia McMillen were born in New York in 1829. Cecelia married a doctor, William Adams in Illinois in 1849, and her sister Parthenia married Stephen Blank, a carpenter, in Illinois in 1850.

In 1852, when the sisters were 23 years old, they traveled with their husbands and father Joseph McMillen to Oregon, where their older brother James had already established himself.

excerpted from:

"Twin Sisters on the Oregon Trail"

in Best of Covered Wagon Women, ed. Kenneth Holmes (Norman, OK: University of Oklahoma Press, 2008), 149-194.

 

July 2 Friday

Had a very hard wind last night The sick man is dead this morning We stop to see him burried They wraped him in bed clothes and layed him in the ground without any coffin We sung a hymn a had prayer O! it is so hard to leave friends in this wilderness

Some of the bluffs look like old castles.

Are in sight of chimney rock, can see it fifty miles off. Passed 8 graves. Follow on the Platte, very poor grass, quite warm, travel slowly. Made 16 miles.

 

In 1856 the twins' father Joseph returned to Illinois via Panama to retrieve his wife Ruth and three other children, crossing the Oregon Trail a second time with them.

Cecelia and her husband settled in Hillsboro, Oregon while Parthenia and Stephen settled in neighboring Forest Grove.

Neither sister bore any children, but Parthenia and her husband adopted and raised ten orphans. Cecelia passed away at her sister's home in 1867, at age 38. Parthenia lived on to age 86, passing away in 1915.

 

“I do not think I ever shall forget the sight of so many dead animals see along the trail. It is like something out of Dante’s Inferno, this barren waste of lava peopled with the skeletons of animals.” ~Esther McMillan Hanna, August 6, 1852


“Traveled fifteen miles today over the most treacherous road I ever could have imagined! Nothing but rock after rock…. nothing but sage…” ~Esther McMillan Hanna, 1852


The emigrants traded primarily with the Shoshone and Bannock tribes, “we could hear nothing in camp but the Indians in broken English say, “How swap! How swap! Salmon! Shirt!” noted Loren Hastings in 1847. The emigrants wanted fresh fish; the Indians wanted needles, thread, tools and clothing. “We bought enough salmon for a fish hook to make us wish never to see any more.” ~Harriet Talcott Buckingham, 1851.


Rough roads and wagons without springs made for a very bumpy ride, and wagons were filled with supplies which left little room for passengers. Travelers only rode in the wagons when they were too ill or tired to walk, and slept  most nights in tents or bedrolls outside the wagon.

“People from the Deep South had deep roots and took little interest in trading their established lives for the great Western unknown. By 1850, only 37 people in Oregon claimed a Gulf state as their home.”

“When John and Cordelia Sharp gave up their farm in Ohio, they couldn’t even afford steamboat fare. They built a flatboat and traveled 900 miles down the Ohio Rover with seven children. They made it to Independence, but had to work four years there before they had enough money to travel to Oregon.”


“Yesterday a number of our cattle and one wagon loaded with provisions and several women aboard escaped going over the falls just by the skin of their teeth.” ~E.W. Conyers, August 10, 1852.


"We arrived at Grand Ronde. We had a feast from the Cayuse Indians. We had some nice elk meat and boiled wit with huckleberries and plenty of flour. We had a royal meal as we thought."  ~John Burch McClane, 1843






Thursday, July 2, 2026

6.17.26 Baker City Museum-Elkhorn Scenic Byway-Hell's Canyon-Baker City, Oregon (PART ONE)

 We arrived at the A-Frame RV Park in Baker City, Oregon. 

The picture below made us laugh so hard!!! Whoever designed the restrooms and showers here must not have any privacy issues. The showers were in a room with only a shower curtain to separate them and an open room to change with anyone else who might be in the shower room too!

The toilet stalls had the doors cut off so that your knees could stick out underneath! So I guess everyone gets to see your pants down!



WHAT IS BIO-DIESEL

We went to get diesel for the truck and the pumps all said bio-diesel. We did a bit of googling and come to find out, Oregon ONLY sells this bio-diesel. Biodiesel is a renewable, biodegradable fuel made from vegetable oils, animal fats, or recycled restaurant grease.

We did a little more research and come to find out Chevrolet will only honor their warranty if the mix is 20% or less. At this point we had no choice but to use it. Al was NOT happy.


Baker Heritage Museum

The Museum is housed in the “Old Nat” (Natatorium). It was built in 1920-21 when Baker City was the place to be. Baker City was once known as the Queen City because of its gold and mineral mining. The building had an Olympic size swimming pool, diving boards, steam baths, showers, meeting rooms and a ballroom with hard rock maple flooring. The pool was fed continuously from a spring ½ mile away. Water ballets, competitive swimming, big band dances, and roller skating were just a few of the activities held here.

Use declined during WWII and the Nat was closed. A company asked to use the building for war products and agreed to restore it after use. The company failed to hold up their end of the deal. They left the pool full of dirt. The building was then used for National guard drills, a 4-H barn, and a temporary fir station. It was considered an eyesore and was up for demolition in 1975 when the Historical Society stepped in and proposed the museum. It started out to be held in only two small rooms but now includes all of the 33,000 sq. ft building.

Something we learned in the museum:

The Chinese Massacre

The Chinese Massacre of 1887, also known as the Hells Canyon or Deep Creek Massacre, was one of the deadliest attacks against Chinese immigrants in U.S. history and one of the worst atrocities in Oregon history occurred at a remote location along the steep banks of the Snake River in Hells Canyon in 1887. At least thirty-one Chinese miners who were mining “flour gold” (fine gold dust) at the mouth of Deep Creek in Hell’s Canyon when seven white horse thieves surprised and murdered everyone. Over two days the gang shot and mutilated the bodies, then after throwing their bodies into the Snake River, the criminals fled with about $4000 dollars of the miner’s gold. All seven killers escaped justice, either by fleeing the region or by jury acquittal in 1888.

“I guess if they had killed thirty-one white men, something would have been done about it, but none of the jury knew the Chinamen or cared much about it, so they turned the men loose.” ~Local Wallowa Valley rancher who attended the trial, 1888.

We tried two other restaurants for lunch and both were closed to we ended up here at Little Pig. Check out a short video of our day below.

Exploring Baker City, Oregon





Elkhorn Scenic Byway

This two-lane byway is 106 miles long! We stopped several places along the way for photos!


Anthony Lake





We were up high enough to find snow on June 19, 2026!

Hells Canyon Scenic Byway

The Hells Canyon Scenic Byway is a loop that encircles the Wallowa Mountains. Part of the mountain road that we drove on today usually doesn’t open for traffic until June 15 because of snow. Today is the 19th! After the snow falls, the same road is used as a snowmobile trail.

Hells Canyon is a massive river gorge located in the Western United States, straddling the border of northeastern Oregon, western Idaho, and extending into southeastern Washington. Carved by the Snake River, it is the deepest river gorge in North America (at 7,993 feet deep), easily surpassing the Grand Canyon.



We drove miles and miles to the top of this mountain to see Hell's Canyon!





Check out my short video below:

More information:
Hells Canyon Scenic Byway


We drove through a tiny town called Halfway on the byway. The whole town is very patriotic! Flags and all kinds of red, white and blue decorations along with 250 years decorations were everywhere in the town! There was a bar with the name “Halfway Sober.”





Next stop...The National Oregon Trail Interpretive Center!


Don't forget...Do something every day that makes you smile! 





Thursday, June 25, 2026

6.10.2026 Twin Falls, Idaho: Perrine Bridge, Perrine Coulee Falls, Craters of the Moon, Shoshone Falls, Evil Knievel, Hagerman Fossil Beds

6.10.26

Travel Day! We moved to Twin Falls, Idaho. We left at 7:00 to try and beat the strong winds predicted. Mona doesn’t like the wind! Again, we were allowed to set up early and the owner actually said it was good thinking!

We talked to the owner and he suggested places to see and a hike for Al. We went to the visitor center, that turned out to be a college kid eating from a food truck and we got little information but we did walk to see the Perrine Coulee Waterfall and the Perrine Bridge across the Snake River!




It was so windy!

Romance at the Bridge

Imagine this scene: Sometime during the summer of 1940, Orville (Gus) Kelker made an unusual request of his girlfriend, Betty Painter. Gus, a pilot, had asked Betty to meet him at the center of the bridge; Gus was flying east of the bridge unnoticed by Betty as she parked her auto and strolled out onto the bridge. Gus flew his aircraft with its engine at full throttle deep into the canyon and under the bridge. Suddenly the aircraft reappeared just in front of Betty and roared upward and over the bridge, diving under it again. Gus then flew downriver waving his wings. Gus, to propose marriage to Betty, had just flown a matrimonial knot around the bridge; a flight he would allude to, but deny, forevermore.

This restored stagecoach belonged to I.B. Perrine, Twin Falls founder. It was the mail wagon and passenger coach. It took 6 horses to pull the fully loaded stagecoach up the steep grade of the canyon. Today the Perrine Bridge is a year-round destination for B.A.S.E. jumpers who travel to Twin Falls from all over the world.







6.11.26

We went to see Craters of the Moon National Monument. It’s called that because astronauts Alan Shepard, Edgar Mitchel, Eugene Cernan, and Joe Engle learned basic volcanic geology here in 1969 as they prepared for moon missions. Al went wandering…down a path and into some lava tubes. Our GPS is either possessed or drunk. Random times the GPS would just spin around like it was lost.

                



In 1924, President Calvin Coolidge proclaimed Craters of the Moon to be a National Monument, preserving “a weird and scenic landscape, peculiar to itself.”



Many lava flows exist on the Earth’s moon, but astronauts confirmed that most of the Moons craters resulted from Meteorite impacts, not volcanic activity. The craters of Craters of the Moon are definitely the result of volcanic activity. But where is the volcano? The volumes of lava in this area are not from one volcano, but from a series of deep fissures known as the Great Rift. Beginning 15,000 years ago, lava welled up from the Great Rift to produce this ocean of rock. The most recent eruption happened only 2000 years ago and geologists believe that future eruptions are likely.




Al went walking up Inferno Cone Point to see what was up there.


That tiny dot is Al...still walking.







Spatter Cone Trail



This is looking down inside the spatter cone.

Spatter Cones-Miniature volcanos formed when blobs of molten lava were lobbed into the air during the last eruption that ended about 2100 years ago. 



Al went walking on the Caves Trail










Some kids climbing in a cave opening that Al could not fit in.

All day we drove around looking for a view of the Sawtooth Mountains up close. Finally, we decided to go back to Mona and Al looked in the rearview mirror and there it was!!! We pulled over to snap a photo.  


6.12.26

Hagerman Fossil Beds. Named for the Hagerman Horse which is an ancestor to modern day horses and has a single toe. In the 1930s hundreds of these horse fossils were found here.


The earliest horse fossils date to 55 million years ago. These early horses wandered in forests, were as small as dogs and had multiple toes. Over time as forest landscapes turned into grasslands, less toes meant more speed and endurance on the open plains. The Hagerman Horse thrived in the grasslands about three to four million years ago. It has a single toe on each foot.

 Where does the water in the springs originate? It comes from the mountains north of Hagerman. For hundreds of years the water flows through the aquifer and eventually comes out at Thousand Springs.

Did you know that the Yellowstone Hotspot used to be here? A hotspot is when magma (molten rock) rises close to the Earth’s surface. The Hotspot moves because the tectonic plate beneath it moves. The black rock is lava rock (Basalt) form volcanic activity of the hotspot. Basalt can have vesicles (Little holes) because of air bubbles in the lava when it cools.



Thousand Springs State Park

Devil’s Washbowl-The washbowl and canyon were created by volcanic activity and erosion. Glacial snowmelt from the north widened the canyon.




The Devil's Washbowl



The Malad Gorge- The Malad River runs at the bottom of the 250-foot canyon for 2.5 miles before it empties into the Snake River.



Box Canyon Springs




Uses of Water Overlook-This structure diverts the water from the Malad River to two Idaho Power Co. generators. Electricity has been created by the Malad River since 1911.



Ritter Island-Minnie Miller ran her then state-of-the-art dairy with her prize winning Guernsey cows.  




The water is the color of icy blue glaciers and the springs are a National Landmark. 


We were waiting in the nice cool , comfy truck for Papa 
who went for a walk to see what he could see.



Niagara Springs National Landmark

Clear Springs Trout Farm and Riverence

The largest land-based trout producer in the Americas. Together, they command the majority of the US trout supply, managing the entire life cycle from egg to plate in Idaho's Magic Valley.


Shoshone Falls –212 feet tall and 900 feet wide, one of the largest waterfalls in the United States, it is taller than the famous Niagara Falls in New York. Shoshone Falls is a sight to see in the spring when snow begins to melt. In summer, a portion of the river is diverted for irrigation purposes which reduces the flow over the falls.






Al at the top of the Evel Knievel Jump Site

Robert “Evel” Knievel was a daredevil and not much intimidated him. This is the earthen ramp where Knievel launched from on a steam powered skycycle on September 8, 1974  and it’s is still visible on the Snake River Canyon rim.

Though Knievel crashed on the jump because of a parachute malfunction, he survived with only a broken nose. It was barely a scrape for a man who had broken nearly 433 bones in his career, including his back seven times. Knievel died on November 30, 2007, after an extended illness.

Want to see the actual jump or learn a bit more about his life? Click below:

Knievel's Jump in 1974

Sad Beginning---Sad End


Marley likes to go!


Check out my video. It is short and includes video clips. Excuse my fingers in front of the screen. I forgot the stick for my GoPro!

Twin Falls: Craters of the Moon & Waterfalls

Next Stop...Caldwell, Idaho
We're just going to rest a bit & catch up on everything for a few days.

Happy Birthday to Jake and Lily!

...Then on to Baker City, Oregon

Don't forget...Do something every day that makes you smile!