Tuesday, July 9, 2024

24.06.17 Page-Lake Powell Campground

Page-Lake Powell---Glen Canyon Dam
Navajo Bridge
Lee's Ferry
Vermillion Cliffs

After Cashton and Sherry went back home, we packed up and moved to Page, Arizona. Page used to be a part of the Navajo Nation but as it grew to a town during the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam, the land was traded for another parcel.  Page is only 50 years old!

*** Note: Driving through the Navajo Nation on the way to Page, I was shocked and sad. There were shacks everywhere. No trees. All rocks and dirt. How did they survive??? Imagine what they felt after being dumped-forced here with nothing.

This is a long post! I had to include a story about a murder and one about an unsolved disappearance! Pass them by if you want but I thought they were interesting...ad had to keep digging!

Monday June 17, 2024

Moved from Williams to Page, AZ. Set up Mona and set out to explore. Went to the Glen Canyon Dam Carl Hayden Visitor Center

Here is a quick video to get you started! 





The Glen Canyon Dam Bridge


Dinosaur Tracks!

The Glen Canyon Dam behind us. We are inside the visitor center.


Al went wandering down a path...I didn't. But...I did meet an interesting man from Europe to told me we had the most fabulously beautiful country! He was here alone seeing as much as he could before he had to go back.

The river side of the dam





Tuesday June 18, 2024

Went to Horseshoe Bend and hiked the 1.5 mile trail to the viewing platform.



The famous Horseshoe Bend

We walked the trail to the Photo Op..."cheese!"







After all this running around, we were hungry! We went to Big John's BBQ...named for John Wayne. It was good. I keep expecting more from BBQ. This was recommended by a local and a couple that were from Switzerland and were camping in the site next to us.  



                                                  Wednesday June 19, 2024

Al liked Waterhole Canyon with a guide. I had a headache and stayed back. 

Thursday June 20, 2024

Went for a scenic drive. Marley came along. We went to Navajo Bridge, Cathedral Rock, Lee’s Ferry and Beach in Marble Canyon. Al walked down the Lonely Dell Historic District where Lee and his wife hid-out after the1857 Mount Meadows Massacre.

The Vermillion Cliffs, underwhelming to me, but if you see the whole map of the Staircase, it is quite impressive. They are part of the Escalante Staircase region...notice the reddish strip in the cliffs...they call that vermillion.

NAVAJO BRIDGE



Marley thought it was time for kisses!




Navajo Bridge





Lee's Ferry

In the 1880's, Mormons followed ancient trails down Paria Canyon to this crossing of the Colorado River. John Lee and two of his wives, including Emma, settled here. They ran a ferry business and Lonely Dell Ranch. Trails follow the Colorado and Paria Rivers past artifacts from their lives. John Lee was a Mormon and had 19 wives and 67 children. The Federal Government outlawed multiple wives in the 1882. 


Paria Beach on the Colorado River at Lee's Ferry.




Al walked out into the Colorado River again!

Lee’s Ferry is the very start of the Grand Canyon, where adventurous river runners launch their boats for trips down the canyon.

Lees Ferry is the only place within Glen Canyon where visitors can drive to the Colorado River in over 700 miles of canyon country, right up to the first rapid in the Grand Canyon.  


 Orchards on the Lonely Dell Ranch


1886 Samantha's Cabin


1878 Root Cellar

1936 Weaver House

The rest of the Weaver House




A Little Backstory...
Prominent in the Mormon Church, Lee had 19 wives and 67 children. In the United States, polygamy was declared unlawful through the passing of Edmunds Anti-Polygamy Act of 1882.

Mountain Meadows Massacre which occurred in September 1857,  involved a group of emigrants known as the Fancher Party (most from Arkansas) who were camped at Mountain Meadows in southern Utah preparing for their final push across the Mohave Desert to California when they were attacked by a group of Mormon Militia disguised as Native Americans.

The reason for the attack is unclear. It was a time of great tension between Mormons and the rest of the United States, but what the militia hoped to accomplish by this attack is unknown. Historians attribute the massacre to a combination of factors, including war hysteria about a possible invasion of Mormon territory and Mormon teachings against outsiders, which were part of the Mormon Reformation period.

After an initial siege, Lee approached the emigrants saying he’d negotiated safe passage for them with protection from their supposed Native American attackers if they surrendered their weapons. The group agreed, whereupon the militia and their Paiute allies proceeded to kill all but the children under 8 years of age. The young children were then cared for by Mormons until they were returned to relatives in Arkansas. One hundred and twenty men, women and children died that day.

Lee was exiled by the Mormons to the canyonlands of northern Arizona. He settled his many families in various communities throughout southern Utah, visiting them as often as he could. As one of his daughters declared, “He was one of the best men that ever lived. So kind hearted to his children.”  An acquaintance described him as a caring man who “never passed up anyone in need.”  Apparently, not all of his wives agreed with these statements, however, as eleven of them left him at one time or another.  He settled with two of his wives, Rachael and Emma, at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria Rivers. Lee and his wives established a ferry service along the Colorado River (Lees Ferry). To shelter and sustain the two families, log cabins were built, fields were cleared, and an irrigation system was dug as part of a ranch (Lonely Dell Ranch) to make the harsh conditions of the canyon more habitable.

For almost two decades, the incident was covered up, but in 1874, Lee was brought to trial. On March 23, 1877, he was taken to the Mountain Meadows Massacre site and was executed by firing squad. Never denying his complicity in the massacre, Lee did insist he was acting on orders from high up in the church.

The Lees Ferry and Lonely Dell Ranch Historic District is located at the confluence of the Colorado and Paria Rivers in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Lees Ferry was one of the few points of crossing the Colorado in the 19th century. It served as the starting point for John Wesley Powell’s expedition through the Grand Canyon and continues to be a critical boat launch area for boaters and rafters today. The ranch contains cabins, irrigation ditches, fields, orchards, a family cemetery, and several artifacts related to the occupation of the site.

The completion of the Navajo Bridge several miles downstream in 1929 rendered the ferry obsolete. The post became a ghost town by the early 1940s. Today, it’s a historic site maintained by the National Park Service.

Lees Ferry is the only place within Glen Canyon where visitors can drive to the Colorado River in over 700 miles of canyon country, right up to the first rapid in the Grand Canyon. Today, operated by the National Park Service, Lees ferry is enjoyed by fisherman, hikers and kayakers, and as we observed the day we were there, people get baptized there!

Vermillion Cliffs





Thousands of years ago a huge boulder broke from the cliff above and tumbled to a stop here. The hard boulder compressed the softer dirt beneath it making it resistant to erosion. The boulder also acted as a huge umbrella, protecting the stone beneath it from wind and rain. Over time, the lose ground was carried away by wind and rain, leaving a pedestal with a balanced rock on top.







A Little Science....The Vermillion Cliffs are part of the Grand Staircase which can be described as a 250 million year old layer cake with each layer taking millions of years to form. The bottom layer is described as the chocolate layer formed 225 million years ago and is visible at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon

The Vermillion Cliffs were formed 200 million years ago and that is what shows in this photo.

The white Cliffs are Navajo Sandstone formed 150 million years ago and are visible at Zion National Park.

The Grey Cliffs formed 130 million years ago and are visible between Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks.

The Pink Cliffs formed 50-60 million years ago and are visible at Bryce Canyon National Park and Cedar Breaks National Monument.

We have been to all of these places and I'm sure you can see the layers in some of our photos!


Friday June 21, 2024

Glen & Bessie Hyde disappeared on their honeymoon trip down the Colorado in 1928. Georgie White became a well-known Colorado River Rafter. According to the Museum guide, who knew her, she was quite crazy and eccentric. Some people think that Bessie killed Glen and after disappearing for a few years, came back as Georgie White. When Georgie died, she had in her possession the marriage certificate for Glen and Bessie and also a pistol. Bessie and Georgie were similar in age and stature. We may never know.

Went to Walmart and ate at Big John’s Texas BBQ, named for John Wayne. It was good. I keep expecting this awesome, mind-blowing BBQ…and it never is…but it was good.

Watched 10 Who Dared movie about John W Powell going down the Colorado River n wooden boats.


POWELL MUSEUM AND ARCHIVES

Al hiked Hanging Gardens and Chains Trails. We went to the Powell Museum and Archives. There was a very interesting guide who grew up there.

He told us many things! Church Row is a street with 9 churches, all different denominations right next to each other. When trying to get the town growing, letters were sent out to different churches telling them they would be provided free land for their church if they came to Page.



John Wesley Powell’s wooden boat, named for his wife, EMMA DEAN, whom he married in 1862. This is the boat he used to navigate the Colorado River in 1871.

The Powell Expedition, led by American naturalist John Wesley Powell, was the first cartographic and scientific investigation of long segments of the Green and Colorado rivers, including the first recorded passage of white men through the entirety of the Grand Canyon. The expedition began its journey in Green River City in Wyoming on May 24, 1869. Assembled there were the crew, the boats and all of the supplies necessary for a three-month trip down the Green and Colorado Rivers and through the then unknown depths of the Grand Canyon.

Despite a series of hardships, including losses of boats and supplies, near-drownings, and the eventual departures of several crew members, the voyage produced the first detailed descriptions of much of the previously unexplored canyon country of the Colorado Plateau

We watched "10 Who Dared" movie about John W. Powell going down the Colorado River in wooden boats. Very interesting story.

Dinosaur Tracks... Many dinosaurs have been excavated in the area and there are tracks displayed everywhere!


Relief Map of Lake Powell

During the construction of Glen Canyon Dam, The U.S. Bureau of Reclamation commissioned a scale model relief map of what would be Lake Powell and the surrounding area. Model map builder Robert Miller used information from topographic maps and overflights of the area to carve the model in his basement with dental tools. It took over a year to complete. He cut the map into seven pieces to be transported to the opening of the Glen Canyon Visitor Center.



This map is amazing. It is so incredibly detailed up close! The guide showed us a piece of the Styrofoam used to carve the map and its a very dense material.


In 2017, during the installation of new exhibits at Carl Hayden Visitor Center, the relief map was cut into the original seven pieces and removed from the building. Two years later, park partners Glen Canyon Conservancy retrieved the pieces and reassembled the map at their Flagship office and retail store for the public to once again enjoy. 



Year Constructed: 1967

Cost at the time: $24,000

Total Work Time: 2,921 hours

Area Shown: 10,000 square miles

Major Features of the Map

National Parks: Grand Canyon, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands

National Monuments: Rainbow Bridge, Natural Bridges, Grand Staircase-Escalante, 

Navajo Tribal Parks: Monument Valley, Lake Powell (Antelope Canyon [Upper, Lower], Waterholes Canyon)

Rivers: Colorado, Green, Escalante, San Juan, Paria

Bonus secret: Bob Miller created the map with such accuracy, he included 12 natural bridges and arches in the topography. How many can you find?



Dinosaurs found in the area.





We had a discussion about Glen & Bessie Hyde, who disappeared on their honeymoon trip down the Colorado. Georgie White became a well-known Colorado River Rafter. According to the Museum guide, who knew her, she was quite crazy and eccentric.

Here is Glen & Bessie’s story in a nutshell…

Newlyweds Glen and Bessie Hyde were on the Colorado River in 1928 as part of their honeymoon adventure trip. The couple set off on October 20, 1928 from Green River, Utah, with plans to run the rapids and travel to Needles, Arizona. Glen wanted to break the speed record for traveling through the Grand Canyon and make Bessie the first woman to be documented doing so. They also hoped to emulate the tales of adventure in the 1920s tabloids and start a career of fame and fortune.

The Hydes stopped for supplies in the Grand Canyon, hiked up Bright Angel Trail and met Emery Kolb (another interesting biography), a renowned photographer who owned a studio on the southern rim of the canyon. Kolb was also an experienced boat rider familiar with the river’s temperamental nature, and he noted the couple’s lack of lifejackets. Glen brushed him off with a laugh. They were already halfway through their journey, and it hadn’t been a problem for them so far.

According to later reports, Kolb also noticed concerning behavior from Bessie. She seemed hesitant to return to the water, either due to exhaustion from the trip up to that point or fear of the rapids waiting for them. Her new husband may have pushed her to continue. They had come so far, after all, and no one wanted to hear about a couple who ended their Grand Canyon boat ride before reaching the finish line.  Glen and Bessie Hyde left Emery Kolb's house near the Bright Angel Trail of the Grand Canyon on November 18th, 1928, and began walking back towards the Colorado River. Before leaving the Kolb's, young Bessie looked back at Emery Kolb's youngest daughter and admired her adorable outfit, saying aloud, "I wonder if I shall ever wear pretty shoes again." With that, Bessie and Glen turned the corner and headed back to the Colorado River.

Glen and Bessie Hyde arrived at Hermit Camp on November 18 in the company of a man named Adolph Sutro. Sutro, a friend of Kolb’s and a wealthy tourist from California, had met the Hydes at the landing below Grand Canyon Village on November 17 and asked to join them on their journey as far as Hermit Rapids. The Hydes agreed. For the rest of that day, the group encountered some of the Colorado River’s worst waters at Horn Creek Rapids and Granite Falls.

Glen, Bessie, and Sutro arrived at Hermit Camp during the off-season, so only the station’s caretakers Mr. and Mrs. Pifer, and one guest were there. After hiking about 1.5 miles from the river to the camp, the Hydes signed their names into the guestbook and sat down with Sutro to eat lunch. After lunch, Sutro snapped a few photographs of the couple before they parted ways with the tourist and headed back down to the boat. They were roughly 375 miles into their epic trek but had another 430 miles in front of them.

They were never seen again and an extensive search began.

Emery and Ellsworth Kolb found Bessie and Glen’s boat December 19, a month after they’d last been seen. It was in working order, still floating in the river, with no one aboard and no signs of foul play. The boat was not battered by the rocky shoreline and showed no evidence of having flipped over - a clear indication that the young couple hadn't encountered dangerous waters in recent days. All their food and personal possessions were still aboard including Glen’s gun, a Kodak camera. There was no indication the Hydes had abandoned their vessel, and there was no sign of them on the nearby riverbank. The Kolbs found Bessie’s journal packed away carefully to stay dry. The journal recovered from the boat had entries dated up to November 30, revealing that the Hydes had spent another 12 days on the water at least. According to Bessie’s account, they had actually been ahead of schedule and made it as far as Diamond Creek a dozen miles from where the abandoned boat was ultimately found. Nothing in her diary hinted at the trip being cut short. Her entries documented their last days, but gave no hint of tragedy. She wrote simply of the rapids passed, their camps, and the surrounding scenery. Bessie and Glen had disappeared. The most common theory is they fell overboard in a rapid at Mile 232 and were drowned. Remember, they did not have life jackets.

The bowline from the Hyde's boat was caught on something below the surface, which had kept it in place for an unknown length of time. For reasons unknown, Emery Kolb cut the bowline and freed the boat, something for which he was greatly criticized later.

Searchers backtracked from Mile 237 to Diamond Creek to search for the couple. They spent more than a month combing the canyons around Diamond Creek, but found nothing. The Hydes were gone.

This is where the story of the Hydes disappearance and urban legend intersect. With no satisfactory conclusion to Glenn and Bessie's disappearance, local rumors began to flourish.

Had the Hydes been murdered? Or were they simply victims of big water and bad luck?

It was true that Emery Kolb had begged the Hyde's to take life jackets when they left his home on November 18th. He'd discovered Glenn didn't have any aboard, and despite asking him to take some of his own for the remainder of the trip, Glen had laughed off his concerns.

Had there been a lover's quarrel between the newlyweds? Had Bessie's unhappiness about the trip boiled over and she lashed out at Glen? Had Glen become disenchanted with his wife's faltering enthusiasm for his adventure?

No one knows and the rumors reached such a fever pitch. 

Another shocking detail emerged after the passing of legendary Grand Canyon River guide Georgie Clarke in 1992. Some friends of Georgie speculate that she was Bessie Hyde. Conversations about Clark’s connections to Bessie started when friends were perusing her personal items following her death in 1992. People who had known her for decades had never been invited inside her home. Upon looking at Clark’s personal effects, her friends learned that her birth certificate indicated that her real name was Bessie DeRoss, not Georgie. Clark or Georgie White (which was another surname she sometimes used). The latter two were the last names of husbands she had divorced.

Her friends’ curiosity was further peaked when they found the marriage license of Glen and Bessie Hyde at her home, and a pistol in her lingerie drawer. Was she in fact Bessie Hyde? To have the Hyde's marriage certificate was beyond strange, but despite the discovery local authorities did not reopen the case.

Colorado River historian Brad Dimock – whose book, “Sunk Without a Sound – The Tragic Colorado River Honeymoon of Glen and Bessie Hyde,” investigates the couple’s story and the subsequent theories – looked at the items from Clark’s home and concluded from photographs that Clark and Bessie Hyde were not the same person. ***I have this book if anyone is interested to read it.

Richard Westwood, who wrote a biography about Clark, has also said that there is little proof to substantiate the theory that Clark was actually Bessie Hyde.

In the 1970s, two additional stories surfaced regarding Bessie Hyde. In 1971, an elderly woman on a commercial boat tour spoke up when the story of Glen and Bessie Hyde was told by a guide during a campfire dinner. The woman claimed that she was Bessie and that, after she had enough of her husband’s abusive behavior during the trip, she snapped, stabbed him, left him for dead and she'd hiked out to Peach Springs, Arizona and started a new life. 

When tracked down by reporters, the woman, named Elizabeth Cutler, denied ever having made the statement to her tripmates despite several statements claiming that she did.

The guide reported the woman’s claims, and researchers looked into the story. They determined that, though the woman resembled Bessie with her features and her height, she was a retired psychologist who liked to tell tales. Though it could not be proven that, without a doubt, the woman was not Bessie Hyde, her claim was discounted, keeping the legend of what happened to the Hydes alive.

But the most intriguing detail to emerge since the Hyde's disappearance came from Emery Kolb himself. After his passing in late 1976, Kolb's garage was cleared out by his estate in early 1977. Inside they found a human skull with an obvious bullet hole. An initial examination determined that the skull belonged to a man in his 20's who was roughly the same height and build as Glen. This sent the rumor mill ablaze. It wasn't until 2008 when a forensic analysis determined it was not the skull of Glen Hyde. The investigation found that the skeleton belonged to a man no older than 22 who died no earlier than 1972, which ruled out Glen Hyde. Furthermore, some detective work uncovered that Kolb had served as a county coroner jury representative for Grand Canyon and had likely kept the skull from a different case after its inquest. It’s still unclear why he stored them in his garage up to his death, but whatever the reason, the Hydes weren’t involved.

Yet another legend is that Bessie Hyde killed her abusive husband and hiked out alone to start a new life, but was never seen again.

So, what became of Glen and Bessie? And what became of their boat, the Rain-in-the-Face? The remains or Glen & Bessie Hyde have never been found, nor has any new evidence emerged that might suggest their whereabouts or what occurred on that fateful day in November 1928. As for their boat, by all accounts after Emery Kolb cut it loose near Mile 237, it floated downriver until the waterway swallowed it. Who knows what evidence might have remained onboard, and questions still persist as to why Kolb felt it necessary to cut the boat free.

The legend of the Hyde's boat still persists among those who live around Diamond Creek.

Bessie & Glen Hyde

Bessie & Glen Hyde

Georgie White



Al hiked to the top of a huge rock-hill behind the campground and took these photos. Mona (our Montana High Country camper is the tan colored one.


Next... We move on to Bryce Zion Campground in Glendale Utah















4 comments:

Jessica said...

Ohhhh, interesting story! I think Bessie became Georgie White.

Marley Makes 3 said...

I agree! Why else would she have all those items...the gun, the marriage license, and the birth certificate with the first name Bessie?

Kathy Brock said...

I absolutely agree! I saw this story once on Unsolved Mysteries....They did an hour on it. I never forgot it!

Vicki said...

19 wives and 67 children?!?!?! And think of how many children those 67 had...

Love the picture of Al carrying the rock ;-)