Sunday, July 28, 2024

24.07.22 Rocky Mountain National Park

 We moved to the beautiful Sun Outdoors Rocky Mountain RV Park. This park is like brand new! Two restaurants, pool, 3 hot tubs, huge fitness center, event center, arcade & bowling alley, putting green, bocce ball, pickle ball, basketball, playgrounds, a lake, and hiking trails, several dog parks, concrete pad and parking, fire pit and clean picnic table, etc...I would highly recommend this park to anyone!

On the way...We passed through the Routt National Forest and the Arapaho National Forest.

We stopped here on the way to our RV Park. It was a mini Super Walmart inside! They had a little bit of everything. 



The Story of Agnes Lowe

Just a few years after the park opened, college student Agnes Lowe wanted to get closer to Mother Earth. Lowe’s stated goal was to “escape for a time from the shams and artificialities of modern city life.” She planned on living in the park for a week, completely off grid. And without any modern supplies. As word of her brave endeavor spread, newspapers dubbed her the Modern Eve. Lowe spent a night at an inn and prepared to spend a week alone in the backcountry of Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park.

Outside the lodge that Sunday in August 1917, Lowe was greeted by Rocky Mountain luminaries, throngs of photographers and nearly 2,000 people. “The immense crowd — the equal of which never has been seen in this resort — cheered her wildly and shouted all manner of wishes for the success of her strange adventure,” wrote A.G. Birch, a journalist and publicist for The Denver Post. 

On July 29, 1917, Agnes Lowe was introduced to the readers of the Denver Post Al Birch and Enos Mills.

Dressed in a primitive leopard skin robe and barefoot, she was sent off into Wild Basin by Enos Mills and other park officials. People followed her adventure closely in the Denver Post newspaper. There were reports of sightings and notes written on pieces of aspen bark in charcoal that were discovered by tourists. “Eve” reported that she nearly froze, but was able to build a fire.

After a week, she returned to civilization, sunburned, healthy, and a local celebrity. Awaiting her was a crowd as large as that on the first day, as well as a mail sack containing no fewer than 64 marriage proposals. “Eve” was treated to dinner at the Stanley Hotel, a dance at another lodge and a welcome ceremony that included the mayor of Estes Park. It sounds like an early version of one of those off the grid reality shows, right? Like Survivor or Naked and Afraid. However, suspicion spread like wildfire, and people began to see the forest through the trees.

Lowe gave some talks in Denver about her experience and penned her own account in the Post in which she bemoaned having to return to civilization. Then she disappeared from the public eye.

What do you think really happened? (See the end of this post)






In January of 1915 President Woodrow Wilson signed the 360 square mile park into law. The official dedication of Rocky Mountain National Park took place later that year in Horseshoe Park on the afternoon of September 4, 1915. Since then, the park has slowly grown to around 415 square miles through property acquisitions.






This Visitor Center is the highest visitor center in the national park service. Alpine Visitor Center is at 11,796 feet above sea level. Al hiked the “Puffer Trail.”

The highest point in the road we are on is 12,183 feet high.
The highest peak in the Rocky Mountain National Park is Longs Peak at 14,259 feet high.


SNOW!


Behind us is a Glacial Cirque
During the last 2 million years, snow hundreds of feet deep accumulated on top of this valley. The tremendous weight compacted the snow causing it to move downhill creating a glacier. As the glaciers moved down the mountain, they scooped out this bowl-shaped cirque.







White Tailed Ptarmigan


The Alpine Tundra is the land above the tree line. Pressure is lower and weather is more extreme, making it harder to survive for plants, animals and humans.


Al hiked up the "Puffer Trail." I went in the gift shop!



Al found pretty flowers on the mountain.








The haziness in the photos is smoke from the wildfires to the northeast of the park.  This wildfire has been burning since we were in Moab.


Al climbed up a rock!


Horseshoe Park



Bull Moose


Cow Moose









Medicine Bow Curve




Oh man...you know how excited Al was when he saw this!!!



Cow Elk









This area was burned of in a wildfire in 2022 and is near the west entrance to the park on Highway 34.  


My Rocky Mountain Video!



To end the day... 3 Dollar Taco Tuesday at the RV Park! Shredded Beef tacos with a spicy siracha aoli and cotija cheese. Delicious!


Al's hike to LuLu City and Halzworth Historic Site


Video (ABOVE) of Al's LuLu City, Colorado Headwaters and 
The Holzwarth Historic Site




There were numerous tributaries from snowmelt that had wooden bridges like these to cross them.








Shipler Cabins


There were several bridges that were damaged from storms, fallen trees and/or flooding.  You can see some new timber to repair/replace this bridge in the background.


The park has numerous warning signs to clear the area and stay away from trees during thunderstorms.  This tree is an example of the danger presented from lighting strikes.


The lower bridge was out so I decided to take the upper trail because I wanted to see Little Yellowstone.



The path to Little Yellowstone was more like a game trail than a hiking trail but the views were gorgeous!



The Beginning of the Colorado River!



Bridge to Little Yellowstone.  I decided not to cross because this didn't look safe and I was alone on this trail.


After criss-crossing the Colorado River multiple times in our travels it was on my bucket list to find the beginning of the river.  That one can be checked off now!


La Poudre Pass and Little Yellowstone converge here to create the head of the Colorado River.  


We've followed the Colorado River across Arizona, Utah and Colorado so far.  Maybe we should follow it through Nevada, California and Mexico to the Gulf of California now?




This cabin was about a half mile from Lulu City, I don't know how spread out the city was but this could have been part of the community.




It's hard to see but the logs amongst the trees here are the last remnants of a cabin in Lulu City.  Most of the people that I came across on my way in never found this but I remained persistent.


There were a few spots like this one where hikers made their own makeshift bridge.



At the age of 14, John Holzwarth left his home in Germany in 1879 and boarded a ship for America. He was to become an apprentice to a baker in St. Louis, Missouri. After being treated poorly he ran away and took several different jobs around the West, including working in a saloon, on ranches, as a cook for sheep herders, and even with the Texas Rangers. He homesteaded the Stillwater Ranch near Granby in 1882, but with the silver panic of 1893, he left the ranch and moved to Denver where he worked at the Tivoli Brewing Company as a bottling foreman. The change of lifestyle proved to work in John’s favor; he met Sophia Lebfromm, who also immigrated to America from Germany. They were married the next year in Denver, growing their family and businesses. While operating a saloon and boarding house they had five children: Christina, Julia, Maria Anna, Sophia, and John Jr. (Johnnie). Julia, Sophia, and Johnnie survived into adulthood. Their successful life would drastically change between 1914 and 1916 as World War I began and prohibition came to Colorado. Suddenly, the Holzwarth family had to face the reality of a changing world.


This miner's cabin (Fleshuts Cabin) is one of the oldest buildings left standing in the Kawuneeche Valley. In 1902, Joseph Fleshuts homesteaded 160 acres here with the intent to live on the land for at least 5 years. Life must have been hard. In 1911 he abruptly abandoned his cabin and was not heard from again.


Large portions of land were still available for homesteading; with that came the opportunity to start over. John homesteaded 160 acres on the west side of the Colorado River in the Kawuneeche Valley and built a small cabin in 1917. Sophia and their son John Jr. (Johnnie), who was 14 years old at the time, joined them on the homestead. During the summers of 1917-1919, they built additional cabins that would eventually become available for guests. In 1918, the Holzwarths purchased the adjoining homestead on the west side of the Colorado River for $2,000. Fleshuts Cabin, located on that homestead, is named after the original homesteader Joseph Fleshuts. The additional property would be called the Never Summer Ranch in later years, and is now used by summer staff and volunteers to greet visitors.


Throughout the 1920s the Holzwarth’s built additional cabins, sheds, and a barn. The opening of Fall River Road brought visitors from the east side to the west side of the Continental Divide, increasing the tourism in the area. After many occasions of Papa’s friends staying at the lodge for free, Sophia, also known as Mama, suggested they charge guests in a German-style inn on the property. They began to change their home into a “dude ranch” which would become known as the Holzwarth Trout Lodge. For $2 a day or $11 a week, visitors enjoyed the splendor of Rocky Mountain National Park while staying in rustic mountain cabins. On "Admiral Blue", the kitchen range that was purchased in 1923 for $40 and freighted to the ranch, Mama cooked three meals a day for guests and served them in the dining room. A typical meal that cost $1.50 included freshly caught trout, soup stock, wilted dandelion greens (bacon, vinegar, and sugar), deer roast, biscuits, and boiled potatoes. The Holzwarth Trout Lodge was officially in business!




This is the bridge and bypass weir for the road to the Trout Lodge.


Over the years, Johnnie made improvements on the property, including building a lodge, dining hall, guest rooms, and barn for the Never Summer Ranch. By the mid-1950s, fishing was not as popular with guests as horseback riding and sightseeing. The Never Summer Ranch dude ranch offered various excursions for visitors to see the magnificence of the mountain country. During this time, the National Park Service began surveying the property for acquisition. Over time, Johnnie had acquired over 800 acres of land in the Kawuneeche Valley. In 1974, the successful homestead and business was purchased by The Nature Conservancy and eventually transferred to the National Park Service. Exploring the property today offers visitors a glimpse into the life of Colorado homesteaders. 


Built in 1917, the Mama Cabin has been well used and loved. Named after Sophia “Mama” Holzwarth, the matriarch of the Holzwarth family, this is the oldest remaining cabins at this site.



Mama's Kitchen


The heritage of the Holzwarth family’s success, perseverance, and their beautiful dude ranch high in the Rocky Mountains is preserved through the stories and buildings of Holzwarth Historic Site.


The cabins had porches on the backside overlooking the Colorado River.



The Ice House




This cabin was named Louise and it immediately made me think of my Mother!


This cabin isn't open to the public and is still used by Forest Service employees as a residence.


The REAL Story of Agnes Lowe

Al Birch, assistant city editor at the Denver Post, carefully planned an elaborate scheme. The idea was to send an attractive young woman into the wilderness to live off the land for a week. By doing this, Birch could generate headlines for his newspaper by reporting on the young woman’s progress in a series of stories. It would also give readers some comic relief from the events in Europe leading up to World War I.

Birch discovered a young woman by the name of Hazel Eighmy (pronounced “Amy”) working as a receptionist at a Denver photographer’s studio. She assumed the fictitious role of Agnes Lowe, a student on vacation from the University of Michigan.

Of course, citizens were angry about the deceit, but did readers of the Denver Post increase? Yes. Did attendance at the Rocky Mountain Park increase? Yes. Visitation to Rocky Mountain did more than double in 1917. Did Birch accomplish his goal with his scheme? Yes.



Sun Outdoors Rocky Mountains RV Park



An absolutely gorgeous RV Resort! Huge sites. Every amenity you can think of. The Best on this trip by far.


A bowling alley!

An arcade...


We walked downtown ...and found a cookie store!


HUGE COOKIES!


We had to get ice cream sandwiches...YUM! Were they worth $25??? LOL



Then later we decided we had to go out for prime rib.




Delicious salad


It was so tender you could cut it with a fork!










2 comments:

Jessica said...

I love my history lessons! Especially when they include historical building pictures. 😊

Vicki - SPWISC said...

Such beautiful landscapes, too bad about the haziness of the fires. Is there no hunting of Elk or Moose this time of year? They look like they don't have a care in the world!